Monday, May 6, 2013

Ecuadorian Hospitality and Climbing Putzalahua

This past weekend held yet another lesson on culture for one of Ecuador’s newest and whitest residents. After the two days were finished I was physically exhausted, full to my eyeballs with Ecuadorian food and a bit red from the ever penetrating sun. I am just now beginning to recuperate.

Last week I went to an all day birthday party where I met a very nice family that invited me and a fellow volunteer to their house “anytime we wanted”.  They were very kind and seemed to be good contacts to have. Seeing as how we had nothing to do in the upcoming weekend we decided to call and accept the invitation to come to their house only six days after meeting them. I felt that it might have been an empty promise and was worried we might be calling a bit too soon. To my surprise they were ecstatic to have us come visit and so soon! We got the address of the house and a few more contact numbers and prepared for our whirlwind one day trip to Quito.

The family actually lives in Cumbaya, a suburb of Quito. Much like the song, Cumbaya is a very calm and relaxed. Oh and did I mention it is where some of the wealthiest people in Ecuador live? Yeah, after we realized where we were going I began to wonder what kind of experience was in store for us.

We left early in the morning on Saturday and embarked on our 3 hour trip. We arrived in the much warmer city of Cumbaya and waited in front of a large megastore for the family to pick us up. A man walked up and asked if we were Todd and Chelsea. Awkwardly we responded that we were and were quickly whisked into a nice car where the grandparents and the daughter were waiting for us. I realize that we as white folk stand out here but when someone comes up and already knows your name and who you are, it is a bit unnerving.

We made it to the house shortly thereafter. This house was amazing. It was in a guarded compound and the first thing I saw was the pool. We weren’t in Kansas anymore. We parked in the garage. That’s right, I said garage. I have not seen one here before this Saturday. Then we were escorted into the house. It was beautiful. The house had hardwood floors, three stories, and a magnificent view of the suburbs of Quito and the surrounding mountains. I tried to keep my jaw off the floor. What kind of Peace Corps experience was this.
View from the 3rd floor

Lunch was prepared for us and the rest of the family was about to arrive. We ate sandwiches and drank juice. I was happy that they didn’t go out of their way to make us a large meal. The parents arrived after lunch and we chatted for awhile. My friend had made a pie to give to the family. I made… drum roll please… Doritos. The family thought that was hilarious and because men here do not cook it was acceptable. They were very happy that we had accepted their invitation. We were asked if we had brought our swimsuits because it was time to swim. I packed my trunks in the anticipation of this offer. We were ushered to the pool and sauna both of which I thoroughly enjoyed.

After swimming we were told to shower and come downstairs for lunch. I had assumed that we had had lunch two hours earlier but as usual I never know quite what is going on here. An enormous meal had been prepared for the whole family. We ate a large cheesy soup followed by salad and fresh shrimp. Then we had the main course of spaghetti and French bread. Dessert was fresh fruit and whipped cream. It was all delicious and I was stuffed by the second course. I must admit that more than once I had to watch the family to decide what piece of the large array of silverware to use. This was a piece of knowledge that I did not think I would need to employ while in a developing country.

At the end of lunch we sat and chatted for about an hour. They, along with most Ecuadorians, love hearing about my family and where I am from. Both topics I am happy to talk about. I love the looks on their faces when I describe my city in Texas. They simply cannot believe people would live in a city that is flat, dry and dusty. When it was time to leave we let them know how grateful we were for having us there. They were pretty sad that we were not staying the night with them. They continually insisted that we could not leave. We promised we would return and stay the night at a later date. They turned this into a plan for us to stay a whole weekend and have the whole family together. They offered to drive us to the bus stop and we were happy to accept. Of course this meant we had to stop and get ice cream to delay our departure from the family. I offered to pay but they would have none of that. They then took us to the stop and we said goodbye and thanked them many many times.

I was amazed at the hospitality of this family. They had met me only a week before but I felt as if I was a member of the family. Despite the fact that this family was obviously very well off they still behaved like any other Ecuadorian family. They were very close to one another and were not arrogant or prideful. I am very proud to say that they are one of my new good friends. The grandmother kept hugging me and telling me how happy she was for us to be there. Ecuadorians walk arm in arm with people they are very close with. The grandmother walked with me in this fashion after only having known me for 3 hours. After she found out that my mom is coming to visit in October she insisted that we all stay with her. I thought she was just being nice but after the third time she mentioned it I knew she was serious. If her house is anything like her son’s I think my mom would rather enjoy that. She continually called me “my boy” when addressing me, in Spanish of course... This could also have been due to the fact that Todd is a ridiculously hard name to say in Spanish. I am hoping she just really liked me.

We got back very late in the evening but the bus trip was not very bad. My friend and I spent the ride chatting about how great and hospitable the family was. In the back of our mind I kept remembering that we had yet another very large day ahead of us.

On Sunday I woke up early without much rest and prepared a large strong cup of instant coffee. “Coffee, if it ain’t instant, it ain’t Ecuadorian”. Ecuador produces some of the best coffee beans in the world but for whatever reason, instant coffee is the craze. At my school the teachers use the drip coffee maker to make hot water to put into a cup and then add the granules of instant coffee. Appalling to all coffee drinkers, but it is what it is.

I headed to the central park of Latacunga at 7:30 in the morning. I walked around until I saw the man I was looking for. I recently met this guy and his wife at a literature night here in Latatcunga. While the poems and songs are in Spanish I can still appreciate the artistic prose. I told the guy that I wanted to climb a nearby mountain but didn’t have much information on it. In true Ecuadorian style he “Ok, let’s go this weekend.” So five days after having met this guy and his wife, I and another volunteer were about to be taken, by car, to the trailhead. The fact that we were taken by car was great. We assumed we would all take a bus but the guy told me that his father-in-law would be happy to take us. We all piled in to a very small car and headed off. We drove for about 20 minutes before arriving at a house on a hill. We all got out and were told to wait. Like always, I had no idea what was going on or about to happen. Then a large GMC 4x4 came rumbling up. We all piled in and headed off again. The man, my new friend, told me that the road is only passable by four wheel drive vehicles. I didn’t know it at the time, but we were going muddin’.

Cruising in the GMC. Can't beat 'Merican muscle.
The road got narrower and narrower. The rain didn’t help much either. We slowly crept up toward the mountain. The family kept calling the truck a “spider” because of the way it would lurch ahead with each touch of the gas. Other folks were making the same climb towards the mountain. Quickly we ran into a traffic jam. Trucks were stuck everywhere. It was very scary seeing the trucks slipping and sliding down the muddy road with large drops on one side. I was happy to get out of the truck and begin the hike.

We hiked for about 2 hours up the mountain, Putzalahua. I chatted with my new friend throughout the trip. He is somewhat of an intellect and enjoyed speaking and debating about socialism versus capitalism. He made some very valid points for his side and I feel that I did the same. It was refreshing to have an intellectual conversation in Spanish. The views along the hike were great. There were many indigenous people living high in the mountains and seeing them work in the fields and the housing always gives me a sense of humility. We made it to the top and soaked in the beautiful views. All around us the Andes rolled their hills out beneath us. I had yet another feeling awe when I thought of how lucky and blessed I am to live in such a beautiful place with such great people.
View from the top of Putzalahua

We had a picnic on the peak of sandwiches, chips and fruits. We took plenty of photos and then decided it was time to head down. When we got in the truck I realize just how exhausted I really was. I was struggling to keep my eyes open as my friend wanted to chat more. My weariness was a topic of conversation and great laughter in the truck as we drove back to Latacunga. We arrived back at his house and all piled out. I hugged each of them and thanked them profusely for taking us. I offered to help pay for gas but this family also would not have any of it. We are making plans to travel to another remote and beautiful spot 5 hours away next month.
Danilo and I

It is crazy to think that neither of these two families had not planned to host or hang out with two gringos this weekend but were more than happy to plan their weekend around us. The father-in-law most certainly could have spent his Sunday a better way than spending his time, money, and energy taking a friend of his son-in-law up a mountain but he was delighted to do it. The hospitality and genuine acceptance of new acquaintances here is incredible.
Couldn't resist taking a picture with this girl and her llama.

This is usually where I try to think of something witty or wise to say but honestly I am still too tired to think. So catch you on the flip side.





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