Sunday, May 25, 2014

Belize: Welcome to the Jungle

I have just returned from a week long trip visiting my pops in Belize. My dad and stepmother are serving as missionaries for young men that attend their school, Belize Vo-Tech. The schools mission is to train the high school aged students in technical skill in a Christian environment. The 28 boys live on campus and visit their families once every three weeks. Essentially, my parents are raising, teaching, and leading the boys of Belize Vo-Tech.

Dad teaching
I told my dad that he should plan whatever he wanted for my trip. I would leave it completely in his hands. I had assumed that my trip would be filled with pristine beaches, snorkeling, deep sea fishing, and maybe a resort or two.

I was traveling with a Hemelstrand, I should have known better.


Ceviche! Yum!

I landed in Belize City after 24 hours of travel from Ecuador. Stepping off the plane and onto the tarmac felt like stepping into a Satan’s sauna. I live high in the Andes where the temperature never gets above 75 and Belize promised to be a bit of a change. After making it through customs I was reunited with my dad and stepmom. The first thing they said was how lucky I was that it was so cool that day. To me it felt about 120 degrees. I never truly cooled off until I got back on the plane the following week. I was starting to understand why so few volunteers travel from their post to another developing country.

We spent a few hours driving around Belize City where I ate the best ceviche of my life! For being a major tourism port I was surprised to see the level of poverty that exists there. Nothing in that city suggested that tourism was the major industry of the country. I had expected to arrive in a posh city that would not compare to Ecuador but I was surprised to see the opposite. Later that afternoon we drove a few hours into the jungle to the campus of Belize Vo-Tech where my parents work and live.

Saw this little guy in Belize City
The campus itself is beautiful. The surrounding jungle is full of life and very lush. My dad showed me around the school. We went to the wood shop where the boys and an instructor make very nice mahogany furniture that helps pay the bills of the school. Then we went to the mechanics shop where the boys learn how to work on cars. The boys also learn to work on different things that break around campus. For example the boys were re-roofing one of the dorms while I was there.

That night I took a cold shower hoping to cool off a bit and it helped to an extent. My parents do not have air conditioning in their house but have an absurd yet necessary amount of fans in the house. I slept with 3 going full blast and this allowed me to sleep in relative comfort. Around 4:30 in the morning the jungle comes alive with the call of birds, monkeys, and assorted other creatures. They are a rather pleasing alarm clock.

The next day I was able to meet the boys before breakfast. Though the national language is English in Belize, most of the boys spoke Spanish as their first language. This certainly helped me get through to the kids and get to know them quickly. Before breakfast is their daily devotional time and my dad asked me to lead it. I had a tough time deciding what to talk about but eventually decided to talk about my life in Ecuador. I wanted the boys to see that there are poor people all over the world and Christianity doesn’t just exist in the States and Belize. I think I got through to them. My PowerPoint over Ecuador helped too. I don’t know how many times the boys asked me through the week what guinea pig and worms taste like.

My dad took me on his daily errands to every hardware store in a 20 mile radius to buy tools and implements for the school. The first store we went into the people lit up and say “Hello Mr. Neil!” with a big smile. Dad would respond with their name and ask how they were doing. This did not just happen at one store, seemingly everyone my dad saw would know him and ask how “Mr. Neil” was doing. My dad has never met a stranger. It is funny seeing how my dad has adapted to Belize and made it just like home. In the States my dad would be on a first name basis with everyone and was liked by all. Though he is living in a developing country that doesn’t share his native language he still has made it just like home. To me, this means it is all about one’s personality and demeanor rather than location that determines happiness and comfort.

One interesting side story has to do with the Mennonites in Belize. In the 1950s they arrived in Belize from Mexico and now have lead quiet farming lives in the jungle of Belize. At large intersections in the jungle it is common to see a few Mennonites with their horse and buggy selling watermelons or other produce.  My father has befriended a few through the sale of a cow and I was able to meet them and see a bit of how they live. They were all very nice people and see their culture and language in contrast to that of Belize was very surreal. It takes all kinds…

In a Mennonite community, read closely
One afternoon I taught class on knot tying to the students. Seeing how the kids work with their hands, my pops thought it would be a good idea to teach a few basic knots. I think dad may also have wanted to learn a few himself and the boys were a good cover. By the end of the class we were having races and the boys consistently would beat me and Mr. Neil.

Knot class
That weekend the boys went home and dad and I were headed on a few adventures. The first was to go to Mayan cave that was used 1100 years ago for human sacrifices and bloodletting ceremonies. You are required to swim upstream through the cave with a helmet and headlamp. After driving an hour of bumpy dirt roads in the jungle we were made aware that we needed a guide as well. Dad thought we could save some money by just showing up at the gate and getting a guide there. We were turned around and told to come back the next day with a guide. The “Hemelstrand Shortcut”, as well called it as kids, still exists...
Friendly critter dad caught

We instead went to a Mayan ruin that was very impressive. We climbed up and down the ancient pyramids and read about the history. The following day we returned to the cave with a guide and hiked to the cave entrance. We went about 2 miles into the cave half swimming and half wading. It was a wild experience. At a set point we started climbing up one of the walls and arrived in a large chamber where the Mayan people had made human sacrifices. There are 14 skeletons in total in the chamber. One of the skeletons is covered in calcium deposits and in the light of the headlamps it looks crystalized. It was amazing.

Mayan Ruin
The last adventure we had came the next day. We hired another guide and drove to another cave system. There we were provided lifejackets, headlamps, and inner tubes. Before we started the float I jumped off a small cliff into the river which I eventually convinced dad to do too. Shortly thereafter we got in the cold water and started paddling downstream. Soon we entered a cave and turned on the headlamps. It was very dark, very quiet, and kind of eerie. Every half hour or so the river would emerge into the sunlight and then quickly go back into the cave. 

Jumping into the river
Cave Tubing
Inside the cave
The following day I had dad take me back to the airport and in true Hemelstrand style we showed up about an hour before my international flight. But I got on the plane just fine. My trip was full of fun but much too short. The boys and employees at Belize Vo-Tech told me I had to come back next year and stay for a longer period. I think I will but maybe not in the hot season…
Roadside Pupusas (El Salvadorian Food)

A short note to my dad and stepmom:

First, dad, I am impressed that your childlike humor has not matured a bit since you have been there. It was nice to still be able to roll my eyes at your moronic jokes. Also, I am glad you still want to be adventurous and have fun. You still have one good hip, keep living it up!

Family friends
On a serious note, I could not be more proud of what you guys are doing in Belize. To do what you are doing requires so much faith and perseverance. I knew we were going through similar experiences but didn't realize we share almost the exact same trials and tribulations. I hope I don’t burst your bubbles, but you two aren't spring chickens and to be willing to make such a change in your lives shows true devotion to the Lord’s work. A son getting to see his parents working in such a way was a blessing. I am in awe of you two and only hope that I can one day measure up to my pops and stepma. Dedicating one’s life to the Lord’s work may not be the easiest path but it is the path you were called to and I am proud to call you guys my parents.


See ya in a year!
















Thursday, May 8, 2014

Viva el Capitán!

This morning if you had told me that instead of a normal co-teaching and co-planning day at my high school I would be dancing on an Ecuadorian military base I would have thought you were crazy. I had already made plans with my teachers and planned to have a meeting in the afternoon with the English Area.

At 7 this morning a teacher called me frantically and directed me to get my "Mama Negra" military uniform and get to school as soon as possible. The avid reader of this blog, mom, will remember that "La Mama Negra" is the annual festival in Latacunga held in November. I was invited to take part in the parade last year and had a uniform made to fit my Gringo-sized body. I remembered the men saying that we should keep our uniforms handy throughout the next year in case we were asked to represent the high school at some city wide function. Apparently the authorities got the call this morning, cancelled school and assembled the ranks.

I was lucky enough to be one of the 12 selected by the authorities to march/dance at the military base outside of Latacunga today. I hurriedly packed my uniform and rushed to school. There we rehearsed the march that we had done for the parade. For the parade in November we practiced for almost 3 months beforehand. Today we practiced for less than half an hour. I was a little rusty but soon got back into the swing of things.
Chiva time!
We then loaded ourselves into the "Chiva" and drove the 20 minutes to the military base. When we arrived we were told why we had been asked to come. The women of the Ecuadorian military were at the base. There were about 150 women that were in the military and maybe 50 wives of the upper echelon of the Ecuadorian military. The women were taking a tour of the base and we were there special surprise at the end. We marched in with the military band and did a few laps around the gym where the women had ended their tour. Then we went into our dance routine. Soon our ranks broke and the women mobbed us with cameras. Not to be too modest, but the women really liked the Gringo in uniform.
Can you spot the Gringo?
After half an hour of photos and dancing we loaded back up into the open-air party-mobile and headed back to campus. The women of the school awaited us at the gate and rushed us into the school and told us all to get changed ASAP. Unbeknownst to me, the authorities didn't get permission to leave the school from the district. Our whereabouts had been found out and someone had made a police report that all the authorities had left the school and were dancing at the base. Apparently driving through the center of town wearing gaudy uniforms and shouting  is not the sneakiest way to get from one place to another.


Things blew over quickly once someone from the district arrived and observed that we were all in the school where we were supposed to be. Appearance is everything. The case was also made to the district that even if we weeerrrreee at the base, we were just being patriotic.
I think she is probably in Recruiting
It seems like every time I get into a routine and start to think I know what is going on here south of the equator something  like this happens to put me back into my blissfully ignorant place. And you know what, I wouldn't like it any other way.