Never thought I would sleep in a guinea pig house

Yes, you read that correctly. Now that I have you hooked, enjoy my latest installment of my crazy Peace Corps life.

I have two friends that I like traveling with and we try to make the most of our time here. We essentially had 6 days free plan a trip during the holiday season of Carnival here in Ecuador. We decided to point our noses south. Equipped with our backpacks, tents, and spirit of adventure we hopped the 12 hour bus to Loja, the first of many butt-numbing bus rides.

Loja is a city in the mountains of the extreme south of Ecuador. I really liked the city. The historic district is beautiful and the climate was very agreeable. I will explore the city more fully when I have more time. For this trip however, it was just a stopover as we journeyed into the jungle. In Loja we met up with the 3^rd amigo. We stayed in a flop house of a hostel but when you are volunteer 6 bucks for a bed is not bad.

The next morning we hopped a bus to go into the Amazon Rainforest. We arrived in Zamora, a small city in the jungle at midday. They are famous for having the largest clock in Ecuador. Fittingly, this Ecua-timepiece is 30 minutes behind. Zamora is a jungle city which equates to heat and humidity. It was HOT. I am talking like Louisiana summer on steroids. We met up with a volunteer that lives around there and he took us to the national park to hike.

Zamora

Quick aside: before we made it to the national park we were bombarded with balloons and a shaving cream type spray as people young and old were “playing” Carnival. It is apparently hilarious to hit unsuspecting people with water balloons from 3^rd floor balconies and throw flour after they are wet. Two weeks ago I was running in Latacunga when out of nowhere I got shot in the face with this shaving cream stuff. Getting the Gringo must be worth extra points. Throughout our trip Carnival was “played” on us more times than I would like to recall…

Back to Zamora. We hiked around in the park and eventually arrived at a large waterfall. The cool moist air coming of the falls was invigorating. We spent 15 minutes or so admiring the beautiful waterfall. Then for some reason we started throwing rocks at the waterfall and seeing who could make it the highest and talking trash about each other’s girly throws. Poster boys of maturity.

We hiked back out of the park and decided to take a dip in a fast running river. The water was not that cold but the difference in temperature from the air to the water was extreme. I watched as one Ecuadorian man jumped from a rock into the fast running river and swam downstream in the rapids for about 100 yards. I asked him to teach me and he was happy to give me a lesson. After some hesitation I launched out and swam as hard as I could in order to get to the middle of the river before I was swept down into the rapids. It was a little sketch but so much fun! Things like that make you feel alive! After our swim we hopped the bus back to Loja where we arrived late that evening.

The next morning we caught a bus even further south. We went to Vilcabamba which is a city of expats mainly from the US. We spent the day looking for a place to camp. We hiked out to different places only to find they were full or too exposed. Finally we gave up and pitched our tents in the city park. City officials told us it was completely legal and backpackers camp there on a regular basis. Not 10 minutes after we erected our tents a man with dollars signs in his eyes came to us and instructed us that we could not camp there if we did not pay him 10 dollars. We were exhausted and didn’t feel like arguing so we paid the impromptu fee and the man left satisfied with his efforts. 

Some high school aged boys came to the park with a basketball so we asked to play with them. We divided up and played. I need to take this chance to trash on my good friend. To protect his identity I will call him Devino. He is very competitive and gives 110% in everything. Unfortunately 110% of zero basketball skills still equates to zero. Devin probably took 30 shots and made one. On the play following his one victorious shot he proceeded to launch the ball over the backboard from about 6 feet out. Downright impressive.

The next morning we broke camp and lumbered toward the bus terminal. We caught a bus headed north to Devino’s site that is essentially in the middle of nowhere. He lives very high in the páramo, basically in the grassy highlands. The last bus we took that day was one of the wildest buses I have ever been on. We caught the bus further south and thus we had seats, others were not that lucky. The bus stopped on the Panamerican highway before turning onto a dirt road that would lead us high into the rural Andes.

The stop was well known and there was an enormous crowd of people waiting to jam onto the bus. The bus probably had 50 seats and I can conservatively guess that there were 120 people crammed into every open space. Whole families would share two seats. For a period of time Justino had a woman sitting in his lap. I called to my other friend across the aisle to ask how he was doing. I could not see him due to the three people squeezed in the aisle between us but he informed me, in English, that rather large woman’s bosom was inches from his face. Oh Ecuadorian transportation, you are a cruel mother.

The bus slowly crawled up the windy dirt road and later that afternoon we hopped off in Devino’s site. It is a chilly site but had the indigenous residents were very warm and welcoming. All the houses are made of mud and the government has been building small concrete houses next to each one and is asking everyone to move. In consequence, Devino lives in the concrete house and his host family continues to live in the mud house. Can’t rush progress I suppose.

We planned on going backpacking that afternoon but the rain would not stop. We waited and waited for the rain to subside but finally we just hoisted our backpacks and headed towards the family farm where we intended on camping. We trudged through newly created streams and through muddy fields as the rain continued to pour. My boots are waterproof but only to a point. My shoes would be wet until the end of the trip. When we made it to the farm we were completely soaked through. Pitching tents in the downpour was not a possibility. The only option we had was to make camp in the only available shelter on the farm, a guinea pig house.

View from Devino's site

Luckily there was a small fire to keep the guinea pigs from dying of cold. We used the available dry wood to cook our hobo dinners and to partially dry our clothing. Animal lovers don’t worry, we didn’t eat the guinea pigs… this time. The fire was nice but the mud house was not well ventilated and quickly filled with smoke. We sat low on the floor to stay out of the worst of it. The 30 or so guinea pigs didn’t mind our company one bit as they quietly squealed throughout the night.

I had to play with the chanchitos

Sleeping in the smoky house was not comfortable or peaceful but at least the roof didn’t leak. We got up at 5 am in order to be clean up camp and get ready to help the family milk the cows at 6. They had no idea that the crazy Gringos were going to sleep in the guinea pig house and we preferred to keep it that way. We stood at the door of the house and watch the rain continue to fall. The family was late that day so we used that as an excuse to hike back through the rain and duck out of milking duty.

Before the "playing" began

Back at Devino’s house we put on dry clothing and I put on every pair of socks I brought. We were served Devino’s typical breakfast, a bowl of rice and potatoes. For that matter, it is his typical lunch and dinner. Meat is rarely eaten there. In the afternoon the rain stopped and the host family suddenly realized that it was Carnival so the “playing” commenced. We reluctantly came out and played with them. I do not know the appeal of continually soaking one another after you are drenched but Ecuadorians derive such pleasure from it. The kids had the shaving cream stuff and through active participation, I observed that getting shot in the orifices of the head is the main objective. I called it quits when the kids started throwing each other into Devino’s bio-digester that converts manure into methane gas. Even though it is a weird way to celebrate a holiday it was actually a lot of fun.

That night there was a fiesta that started at 8 pm. We physically couldn’t do it so we politely declined. The fiesta was very close to the house so we were lucky enough to hear the obnoxiously loud music all night. I do mean all night. We got up at 3:45 in the morning to catch the early bus and the party was still going strong.

Playing spoons

Another very long day of bus rides and we arrived in Latacunga. All told we rode nearly 40 hours on buses during our trip. We slept on the ground most nights. Everything I took with me still wreaks of campfire. We hiked with our full backpacks most of the trip and we did not have ideal weather conditions for most part. There are not many people in this world that would consider that a fun vacation but luckily I found two dudes that feel the same as I do. Devino and Justino, I am happy to call you guys my friends even if you both suck at basketball. 



The 3 Amigos

Cotopaxi is in the bag

Cotopaxi fast facts:

• ·         One of the world’s highest active volcanoes
• ·         The second highest peak in Ecuador at 19,347 ft
• ·         Covered by a glacier
• ·         Higher than 4 of the famous “Seven Summits” of the world
• ·         Almost a mile higher than the highest mountain in the continental United States
• ·         Requires glacier climbing expertise
• ·         Unforgiving
• ·         Colder than a mother

Cotopaxi from near the base

After looking at this list I wonder exactly why I felt qualified to climb this puppy. I had done a considerable amount of backpacking both here and in the States. I had even climbed a few, much less technical, mountains during my first year of service. However, Cotopaxi would prove to be much more difficult than I initially expected. 

Two volunteers and I decided early this year that we would explore this amazing adventurous country and see what it had to offer. This has included mountain climbing, whitewater tubing, sketchy zip-lining, backpacking, and camping. We wanted to add some high peaks to our list. We decided on Cotopaxi, a volcano right outside my city. Most mornings that mammoth volcano stared down at me and the temptation to climb it became too great. My friend Devin and I decided to make an attempt on it. 

We settled on a guide service and a date. We would climb in mid-November which I had been told is the best time to make an attempt due to the calmer, clearer weather. Devin made the trip up to Latacunga and we did an acclimation hike at a giant crater volcano called Quilatoa. This was relatively easy and we passed the hike chatting about our big climb in the coming days. 

On Thursday morning we made our way to the guide service where we were joined by a Canadian man that would also try to summit the next day. He was given his own guide while Devin and I shared one. This Canadian man looked to be about 40 and was built like a lumberjack. I had little doubt in his physical readiness. We tried on all the equipment to make sure it fit. The crampon-friendly boots, gaiters, polar pants, waterproof pants, gloves and liners, goggles, balaclava, helmet, harness, ice axe, headlamp, and jackets all had to fit and work in unison. After we filled our backpacks with all our equipment we loaded into a small truck. Rain began to slowly fall and I wondered how this would affect our first day of climbing. 

Hike to the Refugio

We traveled about an hour and a half and finally reached the base of Cotopaxi. The rain had stopped and the clouds began to clear. We threw our packs on, mine weighing close to 30 pounds, and began our hike to the Refugio. Hiking in the large plastic boots meant for ice climbing was very difficult. They are made to be rigid and have little flex in order to grip the ice better. However, on loose dirt on a steep incline it is like trying to walk across quicksand. Three steps would get me the same distance as one normal step. All this at 15,000 feet made for a difficult first day. 

When we finally reached the refugio we dropped our packs and I felt like passing out. If I had that much difficulty just on the initial 1,000 feet, how could I ever make it to 19,000+? I spoke to the guide and he told me that it was all about acclimation. Now that we were at this height I could rest and let my heart and lungs adjust to the altitude. Plus, the next morning I would be wearing most of the gear that I lugged up in my backpack making my pack that much lighter. 

View from the Refugio

We rested and drank hot chocolate for an hour or so. Dinner was served at 5:00 pm. A large plate of spaghetti accompanied with bread and cheese was given to each of us. We ate the hearty meal then were instructed it was time for bed. The guide told us that if we were able to get an hour of sleep that would be plenty but more was recommended. He told us to not think about the next day or even the summit. We needed to relax and rest. Telling us to not think about the summit was like telling a starving person not to think about food. It was illogical. He also told us that we did not pay for the summit. We only paid to enjoy the mountain. He said that is any of us got sick that we must immediately inform him so he could make the correct decision. Altitude is no joke and people get med-evaced from the mountain more than I care to think about. 

Video of Refuge on Cotopaxi and Glacier 

Refugio approx 16,000 ft

We walked upstairs to our bunks. The bunk room looked like what you would expect from a middle school summer camp. The beds were all touching one another and there was scarce little room to walk. Thirty or so of us all crammed into the small room and tired to get some sleep. There was no heat in the building accept what we produced from our labored breath. I tried to sleep but it was to no avail. I would drift to sleep but would almost immediately wake up gasping for air. We were already at a high altitude and the air was very thin.

I tossed and turned until it was 11:00 pm. We slowly moved our stiff bodies out of the bunks and began to put on our equipment. We woke our Canadian friend and told him it was time to get up. He sat up without a word. I thought little of it. To be honest I was exhausted myself and wanted to devote as little attention or energy to anything other than preparing myself for the long day ahead. After 10 minutes of putting on my awkward and heavy gear, our friend asked if we would get his guide. He was not feeling well. Our friend turned out to have a pretty serious case of altitude sickness. His guide instructed him to lie down, drink water and rest. There would be no summit for him that day. 

We walked downstairs in full gear. Ice axes, helmets and heavy boots banged around the refuge and few words were spoken. Everyone was still tired but ready for action. Our guide took us outdoors in the frigid cold. Even under 4 layers of coats the air sent chills up and down my body. We hiked up to the glacier where put on our crampons and began the climb on the glacier. The volcano is covered in a very large glacier and thus, the remainder of the hike would be on ice. Devin, the guide and I were all on the same rope. If one of us were to slip or fall into a crevasse the other two were to dig in and arrest the fall. I could only hope that this wouldn’t happen. 

Guide helping Devin put on his crampons

The first hour or so we both felt very good. We made jokes and made comments on the natural beauty of Ecuador. We hiked under a full moon and did not use our headlamps for the first half of the hike. The mountains of Ecuador were bathed in moonlight. We passed several sets of climbers and were soon far in the lead. 

We had our first break at about 17,500 feet. There we drank water and tried to catch our breath. When left that perch and headed up yet again. The glacier was rather steep and I preferred to look at the newly made footprint in which I would step rather than think about the steep icy slope on which we were climbing. At one point Devin’s hat blew off and slid down the steep slope. Watching that hat fly down into the abyss was a sobering moment. Things became much more serious after that alarming scene. Because we were highest on the mountain we were cutting the trail for everyone behind us. This was exhausting work. At the next stop we collapsed into the snowy slope and sucked air. A young European girl with tow guides passed us at a rapid pace. The same thing would occur at the last stop before the summit. 

The last 1,000 feet were the hardest. I was exhausted beyond belief and I had to stop about every 3 steps and try to catch my breath. I would lean on my ice axe and strain to see the top of the volcano, the dark always masking it. Devin would shout encouraging words and we would lumber on only to stop 30 seconds later. Finally I was told that we were on the last push; 600 vertical feet to the top. I dug deep and fought against everything that told me to stop. I could smell the sulfur that spewed from the volcano. Half an hour later we came over a ridge and were met with some of the most astounding views I have ever seen. I was not sure if it was the altitude or my exhaustion but I became weak all over and wanted to collapse. Words cannot describe the emotion that hit Devin and I. For once, Devin and I were without words or even a voice. (If you don’t know Devin or me, that is really something…)

 Video of us on Cotopaxi Summit

Photos courtesy of Devin Yeoman

We spent about 20 minutes on the summit watching the sun slowly rise. We arrived at about 5:30 am, the perfect time to catch the sunrise over the blanket of clouds and snow covered peaks that jutted through them. I can honestly say that was the most beautiful sight these eyes had ever seen. 

Party Shirt and Monkey's Uncle

Our guide told us it was time to go down. The bitter cold and wind on the summit would soon take its toll if we didn’t get moving again. We roped back up and began the treacherous hike down. On the way up we only needed to look at our feet and occasionally up higher on the glacier. On the way down however, we had to stare at the dizzying heights that we were descending. I tried to get into mode of putting one foot in front of the other. I led the way down and had to stick to the exact path that we had originally made. The guide was in the back in order to save us should we slip. Deep crevasses lay all over the mountain and our guide had done a good job avoiding them on the way up. At that point I was beyond exhausted but had to keep my mental faculties sharp. 

 Video of views from Cotopaxi

Two hours later we were down at the refugio. Devin and I spoke little on the descent. We both just wanted something warm to drink and a bed to sleep in. We thanked our guide and hiked down the last 1,000 feet to the truck. I have never been so happy to sit down in a vehicle in my life. We had made it. 

Looking at the pictures I still have a hard time believing what we did. I thought I knew what was in store and felt prepared. Now that we have done it I feel a sense of accomplishment. I am thankful for the opportunity to do something of this magnitude. Whether or not I will do something like this again has yet to be decided. I will say I can see how people can get addicted it.

Proud Uncle

Our guide thought it would be cool to hang off the edge

Antisana

19,347 feet. Highest summit so far!

Hot dogs for everyone!

After climbing Putzalahua last weekend I was very tired and not quite ready to start the work week. On Monday it was difficult to walk. Every part of my body was sore but work started none the less. This week was rather productive at my high school. I was able to work with several of my teachers in and out of their classrooms. This had been elusive due to time constraints and cancelled classes. A fellow volunteer and I held our English club where close to 70 kids showed up. We made small planters out of orange peels. The kids really enjoyed making them. After they finished them we planted them in the school garden. We will see if any of them actually grow. Due to dryer weather and general lack of concern on the part of 13 year olds I am guessing we won’t see too many buds.

Orange Peel Planters

This weekend I went to a birthday party for my boss’s son that was turning 9 years old. When we walked in I knew we were in for a treat. Cake, party favors, all kinds of food, a bouncy house and a DJ all sat waiting. The party was to begin at 2:30 so we arrived around then. The other Ecuadorian guests arrived between 3:00 and 4:00. How American of us to show up so “early”. 

Birthday time. Each of those baskets are party favors.

Ecuadorian parties are all about food. I think I ate more food that day than I ate all week. There was a continuous stream of plates placed in front of me. Not wanting to be rude, I ate everything. Plus, I am a volunteer so free food is the best. My boss came up to me early in the party and asked that I cook hot dogs and serve them at some point in the party. I happily accepted my new role as hot dog vender. I even got to use a sweet hot dog cart.

Awesome right?

Ecuadorian Tug 'o War. No rope necessary

We played many games and watched on as the kids enjoyed themselves. Everyone at the party was genuinely nice and didn’t seem to find it odd that Gringos had invaded the party. We were accepted into the group just as anyone else would have been. 

Just today a group of us went to the Ilinizas. These are two large, very high snow-capped mountains about an hour outside my city. We signed up to go on a short hiking trip with the local gym. Our destination was not the summit but to hot springs that were high on the slopes of Iliniza Norte.  We traveled by bus over very bumpy dirt roads before we had to get out because the bus could go no further. We had hiked about 2 hours when we reached a mineral water fall that was about 40 feet high. The water was warm and steam was coming off of it. The mineral rich water had stained the rock to a burnt orange color. We took photos and then continued on our way. 

Mineral Waterfall near Los Ilinizas

A short but very steep hike led us to the springs. The weather was very cold due to the high altitude (roughly 14,000 feet) and the steam from the springs could be seen from a great distance. We were some of the first to arrive at the springs. I quickly stripped down and threw on my bathing suit. The water was warm and felt nice considering the bitter cold and wind. I stayed in the springs for about 30 minutes and then made the decision it was time to get out. That was about the coldest I have been here in Ecuador. Trying to dry off and put on pants and tie my boots in the very cold air about turned my fingers to icicles. We spent some more time around the springs and then headed down late in the afternoon taking in the majestic views of the Andes. 

As I re-read this post I can’t help but think about how busy I have been. I can only hope that writing these posts will help me remember all the experiences I have been lucky enough to have.