Cotopaxi is in the bag

Cotopaxi fast facts:

• ·         One of the world’s highest active volcanoes
• ·         The second highest peak in Ecuador at 19,347 ft
• ·         Covered by a glacier
• ·         Higher than 4 of the famous “Seven Summits” of the world
• ·         Almost a mile higher than the highest mountain in the continental United States
• ·         Requires glacier climbing expertise
• ·         Unforgiving
• ·         Colder than a mother

Cotopaxi from near the base

After looking at this list I wonder exactly why I felt qualified to climb this puppy. I had done a considerable amount of backpacking both here and in the States. I had even climbed a few, much less technical, mountains during my first year of service. However, Cotopaxi would prove to be much more difficult than I initially expected. 

Two volunteers and I decided early this year that we would explore this amazing adventurous country and see what it had to offer. This has included mountain climbing, whitewater tubing, sketchy zip-lining, backpacking, and camping. We wanted to add some high peaks to our list. We decided on Cotopaxi, a volcano right outside my city. Most mornings that mammoth volcano stared down at me and the temptation to climb it became too great. My friend Devin and I decided to make an attempt on it. 

We settled on a guide service and a date. We would climb in mid-November which I had been told is the best time to make an attempt due to the calmer, clearer weather. Devin made the trip up to Latacunga and we did an acclimation hike at a giant crater volcano called Quilatoa. This was relatively easy and we passed the hike chatting about our big climb in the coming days. 

On Thursday morning we made our way to the guide service where we were joined by a Canadian man that would also try to summit the next day. He was given his own guide while Devin and I shared one. This Canadian man looked to be about 40 and was built like a lumberjack. I had little doubt in his physical readiness. We tried on all the equipment to make sure it fit. The crampon-friendly boots, gaiters, polar pants, waterproof pants, gloves and liners, goggles, balaclava, helmet, harness, ice axe, headlamp, and jackets all had to fit and work in unison. After we filled our backpacks with all our equipment we loaded into a small truck. Rain began to slowly fall and I wondered how this would affect our first day of climbing. 

Hike to the Refugio

We traveled about an hour and a half and finally reached the base of Cotopaxi. The rain had stopped and the clouds began to clear. We threw our packs on, mine weighing close to 30 pounds, and began our hike to the Refugio. Hiking in the large plastic boots meant for ice climbing was very difficult. They are made to be rigid and have little flex in order to grip the ice better. However, on loose dirt on a steep incline it is like trying to walk across quicksand. Three steps would get me the same distance as one normal step. All this at 15,000 feet made for a difficult first day. 

When we finally reached the refugio we dropped our packs and I felt like passing out. If I had that much difficulty just on the initial 1,000 feet, how could I ever make it to 19,000+? I spoke to the guide and he told me that it was all about acclimation. Now that we were at this height I could rest and let my heart and lungs adjust to the altitude. Plus, the next morning I would be wearing most of the gear that I lugged up in my backpack making my pack that much lighter. 

View from the Refugio

We rested and drank hot chocolate for an hour or so. Dinner was served at 5:00 pm. A large plate of spaghetti accompanied with bread and cheese was given to each of us. We ate the hearty meal then were instructed it was time for bed. The guide told us that if we were able to get an hour of sleep that would be plenty but more was recommended. He told us to not think about the next day or even the summit. We needed to relax and rest. Telling us to not think about the summit was like telling a starving person not to think about food. It was illogical. He also told us that we did not pay for the summit. We only paid to enjoy the mountain. He said that is any of us got sick that we must immediately inform him so he could make the correct decision. Altitude is no joke and people get med-evaced from the mountain more than I care to think about. 

Video of Refuge on Cotopaxi and Glacier 

Refugio approx 16,000 ft

We walked upstairs to our bunks. The bunk room looked like what you would expect from a middle school summer camp. The beds were all touching one another and there was scarce little room to walk. Thirty or so of us all crammed into the small room and tired to get some sleep. There was no heat in the building accept what we produced from our labored breath. I tried to sleep but it was to no avail. I would drift to sleep but would almost immediately wake up gasping for air. We were already at a high altitude and the air was very thin.

I tossed and turned until it was 11:00 pm. We slowly moved our stiff bodies out of the bunks and began to put on our equipment. We woke our Canadian friend and told him it was time to get up. He sat up without a word. I thought little of it. To be honest I was exhausted myself and wanted to devote as little attention or energy to anything other than preparing myself for the long day ahead. After 10 minutes of putting on my awkward and heavy gear, our friend asked if we would get his guide. He was not feeling well. Our friend turned out to have a pretty serious case of altitude sickness. His guide instructed him to lie down, drink water and rest. There would be no summit for him that day. 

We walked downstairs in full gear. Ice axes, helmets and heavy boots banged around the refuge and few words were spoken. Everyone was still tired but ready for action. Our guide took us outdoors in the frigid cold. Even under 4 layers of coats the air sent chills up and down my body. We hiked up to the glacier where put on our crampons and began the climb on the glacier. The volcano is covered in a very large glacier and thus, the remainder of the hike would be on ice. Devin, the guide and I were all on the same rope. If one of us were to slip or fall into a crevasse the other two were to dig in and arrest the fall. I could only hope that this wouldn’t happen. 

Guide helping Devin put on his crampons

The first hour or so we both felt very good. We made jokes and made comments on the natural beauty of Ecuador. We hiked under a full moon and did not use our headlamps for the first half of the hike. The mountains of Ecuador were bathed in moonlight. We passed several sets of climbers and were soon far in the lead. 

We had our first break at about 17,500 feet. There we drank water and tried to catch our breath. When left that perch and headed up yet again. The glacier was rather steep and I preferred to look at the newly made footprint in which I would step rather than think about the steep icy slope on which we were climbing. At one point Devin’s hat blew off and slid down the steep slope. Watching that hat fly down into the abyss was a sobering moment. Things became much more serious after that alarming scene. Because we were highest on the mountain we were cutting the trail for everyone behind us. This was exhausting work. At the next stop we collapsed into the snowy slope and sucked air. A young European girl with tow guides passed us at a rapid pace. The same thing would occur at the last stop before the summit. 

The last 1,000 feet were the hardest. I was exhausted beyond belief and I had to stop about every 3 steps and try to catch my breath. I would lean on my ice axe and strain to see the top of the volcano, the dark always masking it. Devin would shout encouraging words and we would lumber on only to stop 30 seconds later. Finally I was told that we were on the last push; 600 vertical feet to the top. I dug deep and fought against everything that told me to stop. I could smell the sulfur that spewed from the volcano. Half an hour later we came over a ridge and were met with some of the most astounding views I have ever seen. I was not sure if it was the altitude or my exhaustion but I became weak all over and wanted to collapse. Words cannot describe the emotion that hit Devin and I. For once, Devin and I were without words or even a voice. (If you don’t know Devin or me, that is really something…)

 Video of us on Cotopaxi Summit

Photos courtesy of Devin Yeoman

We spent about 20 minutes on the summit watching the sun slowly rise. We arrived at about 5:30 am, the perfect time to catch the sunrise over the blanket of clouds and snow covered peaks that jutted through them. I can honestly say that was the most beautiful sight these eyes had ever seen. 

Party Shirt and Monkey's Uncle

Our guide told us it was time to go down. The bitter cold and wind on the summit would soon take its toll if we didn’t get moving again. We roped back up and began the treacherous hike down. On the way up we only needed to look at our feet and occasionally up higher on the glacier. On the way down however, we had to stare at the dizzying heights that we were descending. I tried to get into mode of putting one foot in front of the other. I led the way down and had to stick to the exact path that we had originally made. The guide was in the back in order to save us should we slip. Deep crevasses lay all over the mountain and our guide had done a good job avoiding them on the way up. At that point I was beyond exhausted but had to keep my mental faculties sharp. 

 Video of views from Cotopaxi

Two hours later we were down at the refugio. Devin and I spoke little on the descent. We both just wanted something warm to drink and a bed to sleep in. We thanked our guide and hiked down the last 1,000 feet to the truck. I have never been so happy to sit down in a vehicle in my life. We had made it. 

Looking at the pictures I still have a hard time believing what we did. I thought I knew what was in store and felt prepared. Now that we have done it I feel a sense of accomplishment. I am thankful for the opportunity to do something of this magnitude. Whether or not I will do something like this again has yet to be decided. I will say I can see how people can get addicted it.

Proud Uncle

Our guide thought it would be cool to hang off the edge

Antisana

19,347 feet. Highest summit so far!