Climbing Pichincha

This past weekend was a three day holiday here in Ecuador and a few volunteers decided to get together in Quito and attempt to climb the volcano Pichincha. I was excited to get away from work for a few days and reunite with a few of my friends.

We all met up in Quito Friday morning and checked in at The Secret Garden. I have now stayed at this hostel twice and would highly recommend it to travelers that want to save money but not sacrifice (modest) comfort and (some) security. This hostel has a great view of the Centro Historico of Quito. They have a restaurant/bar/relaxation spot on the fifth floor balcony that has magnificent views of the Quito and Pichincha.

View from The Secret Garden

On Friday we bummed around Quito and Mariscal district in anticipation of the next day’s climb. Pichincha is easily seen from most spots in Quito. It sits on the western border of the city with two towering peaks looking down over the city. The peak that we would climb, Rucu Pichincha, sits at 15,413 feet above sea level.  I should have realized that this was not going to be a cake walk.

Friday evening and night was spent at the restaurant and lounge area on the roof with many other international travelers. My friends and I had many long conversations/debates with a few of the European travelers. A Dutch man and I got into a discussion and the need to say the pledge of allegiance. He thought it was ridiculous and he was shocked when I said that in Texas schools we actually say the state pledge daily. He went on to say that he thought that sounded a lot like North Korea to him. He knew that statement was outrageous but he was simply trying to antagonize the Texan. After that speed bump was behind us we actually did have a good discussion about healthcare and the motivation to earn it rather than receive it. Points were made by a Frenchman, the Dutch guy, an English dude, and of course, me. It was all very good brain food.

The next morning we woke and enjoyed some two day old coffee on the fifth floor of our hostel. The flavor may not have been too good but at least it was warm and free. We gathered our things for the climb and set off toward the mountain. We hailed a taxi to take us to the base. From there we hopped on the teleférico, a four person gondola that takes site seers up part of the mountain. From the top of the teleférico we took a few pictures and looked around a bit. Once I saw how far we had to go my stomach dropped a bit. The gondola had taken us up only a small way on our journey to the top. We set off.

Gondola

Over the next two hours we hiked up and up and up. After every ridge we hoped to see the actual peak but we would just see another high ridge ahead of us. As we would later find out, the summit that we saw from the top of the teleférico was actually a “false summit” that really hid the much higher summit behind it. We stopped periodically to catch our breath and drink water and wonder how much further it was. We were afforded great views of Quito from this point on the mountain. As he looked over the city of Quito and the beautiful Andean landscape a friend of mine mentioned that climbing mountains makes one feel truly insignificant. It was an interesting thought and I shared that I felt almost the exact opposite. I feel more significant out in nature and being away from “everything” else. I also shared that the time I felt most insignificant was on top of the Empire State Building in NYC and seeing so many buildings and people and people in buildings. The mountains give me a place to feel both isolated from the world and yet totally in tune with it.



View of Quito before we entered the clouds

As we began the third hour of climbing the clouds rolled in. Or maybe more accurately we climbed into the clouds. Visibility was very low which may not have been a bad thing considering the how steep the mountain was if you looked down. If you can’t see it, you can’t be scared of it right? Pretty soon we left the discernible trail behind. The trail was gone and the only place to go was up. It started out in a rock scree that seemed to last forever but later would provide us the fun opportunity of “skiing” down it. We had to stop seemingly every minute or two to breathe. I was not expecting this climb to be so difficult considering that I had climbed another mountain here that was only a bit smaller. I believe the difference was the distance we had to hike to get to the start of the real climb.

View from the saddle

We made it up the rock scree and to a small saddle between the summit and another smaller peak. We rested there and talked about our options. After a bit of discussion we all knew we were going up even higher into the windy cloudy sky. The last 200 meters or so of Pichincha are a bear crawl up a pretty steep rocky incline. We scrambled up and finally made it to the top. Though there was no view to be seen due to the clouds but it was a great feeling to realize we could go no higher. We sat on the summit and ate empanadas and took a few pictures. I was freezing because I decided to wear shorts rather than jeans (lesson learned). We took in the limited oxygen for a few more minutes than decided it was time to point our noses downhill.

The descent took us about an hour and half, half the time it took us to get up there. As the adrenaline began to wear off from us summiting I began to realize how tired I was. The same thing dawned on my friends at seemingly the same time. Anytime there was a part of the trail that we could jog safely we did so to make the descent quicker. We finally made it down and hopped on the teleférico. It never felt so good to sit down.

A little "Karate Kid" on the summit

That evening we arrived at the hostel smelling to high heaven and could barely drag ourselves to the fourth floor where we were bunking. We got into the room that we were sharing with a few other travelers and laid down with a chorus of groans. As we talked about the days adventures I happened to glance over at our lockers in the room. A fellow volunteer had put all of his valuables in my locker because I had a lock. That locker had a significant amount of “goodies” in it. A smart phone, two hard drives, mp3 player, a wallet, and another volunteer’s cash. When I looked at the locker my heart stopped. Someone had broken the bottom part of the locker enough to get a hand into it. I pointed this out to my friends and began frantically searching for my key. When I finally found the key I fumbled with it to unlock the lock. Miraculously all of our things were still there. I was so relieved after this realization as well as exhausted from the climb that I laid down on the floor next to the lockers for a good twenty minutes as we all spoke about how crappy some people are.

We spent the evening in the Mariscal district that is very popular with Gringos. It felt good to relax and enjoy some good food and drink. I ate at a Mexican food restaurant that was amazing. It was so amazing that I am still sick from it! A friend of mine ate one bean off of my plate and he also became sick. If one bean made him sick, just imagine what a whole plate did to me. My host father has dubbed me “king” because of my frequent visits to the “throne”…

Probably the most accurate visual description of my emotions up high

This climb up Pichincha was much more difficult than I had anticipated. I have been running a good amount here in Latacunga to keep my cardio up and I plan on training much harder for our next climb. I hope that within the next year I will be able to climb Cotopaxi, the world’s highest active volcano which sits at 19,347 feet. Pichincha was a good tester to see how I might fare at higher elevation. I think I can… I think I can… I think I can.

Great trip with great friends

What do you bet the Gringo eats French fries?

So what is there to report since my last post? I have been sick for basically 2 weeks straight. It began with the loss of hearing in my right ear after swimming in Cumbaya. I thought it was nothing at the time and didn’t report the loss of hearing to the Medical Unit. After four days I decided it was time to do something. I spoke with the Peace Corps Medical Officer and was instructed to go to the local hospital and have my ear checked out. Little did I know that this was about to be yet another adventure into uncharted territory.  The instructions from the PC were vague at best. I decided to call the Ministry of Education English Coordinator to get her opinion on which hospital to go to and how to go about getting treatment. She told me to show up at her office and we would go together.  I was very grateful that she would drop everything she was doing and offer to take me to the hospital.

We entered into the ER which comprised of a bed with a sheet, a scale, and a plethora of hurting people. I felt out of place for more than one reason. For starters, I am white. Also, I was in nowhere near as much pain as many of the other patients. As the nurse began asking me questions I realized something else. Everyone at the hospital was indigenous. I asked the MOE Coordinator why that was. She responded that this hospital was for non-government workers and people that couldn’t afford the other “social security” hospital. So basically, I was in a welfare hospital with-in a Socialists country. Fantastic.

I was questioned by the nurse about the usual health things: age, weight, height, history of medical problems, French fry intake. That’s right, he asked me if I ate a lot of French fries. He asked this as if it were on the medical chart right below date of birth. I responded with a quick “no” but I have a feeling he might have checked yes anyway. I later asked the MOE Coordinator why I was asked this information. She responded that he was probably just curious to find out if this particular Gringo stereotype was true.

We were then ushered to another part of the hospital to wait on a doctor. We sat for about an hour without seeing any of the ailing older people enter the doctor’s office. We then saw the doctor walk out of the office and down the hall to a supply closet. The MOE Coordinator quickly got up and walked after her. After a quick conversation she came back to me and informed me that the doctor was just chit chatting with a friend. But the MOE Coordinator had told the doctor that I was sick and did not speak a word of Spanish and she was there to translate but could only wait for an hour. The doctor said she would be with me shortly, 58 minutes later to be exact. I was told to not to respond to the doctor and pretend as if I did not understand a word of what she was saing once we got in there. I accidently responded once but quickly acted as if I was speaking English rather than get caught and sent back out to the hallway.

The diagnosis ended up being that I had an infection and I was sure to get the flu the following day. I was giving a plethora of pills and told to go to sleep. Surprisingly the entire visit was free including the medication. I have mixed emotions about the whole thing. Yes, it was free medical care, but at what cost? The doctors were not motivated to help and one could tell the standard of care was nowhere near where it should have been. I have been informed by other volunteers that there are great hospitals in Quito and the next time I am sick I should just insist on medical care in one of those hospitals. To the doctor’s credit, I did get the flu the next day. I was doubled up in bed for 4 days and am just now fully getting over my cough. A friend of mine insists that bad things happen so that you can appreciate the good when it comes. I am sure that when I feel better I will rejoice in my new found health.

One more note on medical care. I spoke with the MOE Coordinator about medical care here in Ecuador compared to the US. I informed her that I knew of people that work full-time for 12,000 dollars a year in the United States because they receive medical benefits from the job. Her eyes widened at this statement. I later found out this was not because of the measly amount of pay but rather that doctors in Ecuador make roughly 1,000 dollars a month. Her shock was not due to the fact that people work in America for 12k but rather that this was an exorbitant amount of money. 

Note to self: don’t bring up American wages again…

I went back to school on Thursday of last week. Everyone was worried about me and had plenty of theories as to why I was sick. The overwhelming opinion was that I do not wear a scarf around my neck at all times. Others included that I swam in water that was too cold. Everyone had their own idea and who knows what the actual reason was. I am just hoping it doesn’t happen again.

Young man preparing his lips.

Video of Flag Ceremony

On Friday classes were cancelled for a ceremony that happens once a year for the graduating seniors. They are all lined up with military like precision and one by one were marched up to Ecuadorian flags. They then went down on one knee as if they are going to propose to the flag and then they kiss the flag in a symbol of patriotism. All of this was set to the beat of the large school band that played a marching song as the students went to show their patriotism. They are supposed to promise the country something of themselves. Then they are marched back to their spot in line. It was a very nice ceremony. The young men and women went up the flag with all seriousness and smooched away. I was very impressed with the level of dedication each and every senior had. I was expecting one or two to make light of the situation or only kiss the colors half-heartedly.

Marching in unison

This ceremony only served to remind me how traditional this society is. It had almost a romantic appeal to it. Rebellion is not in the vocabulary of the students and young people here. Yes, some students cut loose on the weekends and have a drink or spray paint some politically-motivated graffiti on a wall but mainly they behave the same as their parents. Authority is really not questioned here. I cannot imagine telling a group of American high school students that they have to kiss an American flag. How many students would really do this? By the time American students are 18 they have already begun their paths towards independence and free will. This is a value that we as Americans hold dear. The ability to question authority and identify what you believe is an integral part of being an American. Ecuadorian youth may not agree with everything that is said by their parents or school authorities but at the end of the day, they are all going to kiss that flag.

Flag ceremony

That evening I was invited to a party honoring a man that was receiving a lifetime achievement award for his work in the field of agriculture. This man had organized labor and brought a brighter future to many indigenous farmers. The ceremony concluded after 2 hours of praise for the man from the governor of the province, the mayor and many other prominent individuals in the community. I felt like high society that evening. Then the dancing began. A local artist serenaded the crowd of revelers and a very famous Ecuadorian band, “Casa De Cultura” played long into the night. It was a nice cap to a long week.

Traditional dance after the ceremony

Salud. Or at least in hope of health.

Ecuadorian Hospitality and Climbing Putzalahua

This past weekend held yet another lesson on culture for one of Ecuador’s newest and whitest residents. After the two days were finished I was physically exhausted, full to my eyeballs with Ecuadorian food and a bit red from the ever penetrating sun. I am just now beginning to recuperate.

Last week I went to an all day birthday party where I met a very nice family that invited me and a fellow volunteer to their house “anytime we wanted”.  They were very kind and seemed to be good contacts to have. Seeing as how we had nothing to do in the upcoming weekend we decided to call and accept the invitation to come to their house only six days after meeting them. I felt that it might have been an empty promise and was worried we might be calling a bit too soon. To my surprise they were ecstatic to have us come visit and so soon! We got the address of the house and a few more contact numbers and prepared for our whirlwind one day trip to Quito.

The family actually lives in Cumbaya, a suburb of Quito. Much like the song, Cumbaya is a very calm and relaxed. Oh and did I mention it is where some of the wealthiest people in Ecuador live? Yeah, after we realized where we were going I began to wonder what kind of experience was in store for us.

We left early in the morning on Saturday and embarked on our 3 hour trip. We arrived in the much warmer city of Cumbaya and waited in front of a large megastore for the family to pick us up. A man walked up and asked if we were Todd and Chelsea. Awkwardly we responded that we were and were quickly whisked into a nice car where the grandparents and the daughter were waiting for us. I realize that we as white folk stand out here but when someone comes up and already knows your name and who you are, it is a bit unnerving.

We made it to the house shortly thereafter. This house was amazing. It was in a guarded compound and the first thing I saw was the pool. We weren’t in Kansas anymore. We parked in the garage. That’s right, I said garage. I have not seen one here before this Saturday. Then we were escorted into the house. It was beautiful. The house had hardwood floors, three stories, and a magnificent view of the suburbs of Quito and the surrounding mountains. I tried to keep my jaw off the floor. What kind of Peace Corps experience was this.

View from the 3rd floor

Lunch was prepared for us and the rest of the family was about to arrive. We ate sandwiches and drank juice. I was happy that they didn’t go out of their way to make us a large meal. The parents arrived after lunch and we chatted for awhile. My friend had made a pie to give to the family. I made… drum roll please… Doritos. The family thought that was hilarious and because men here do not cook it was acceptable. They were very happy that we had accepted their invitation. We were asked if we had brought our swimsuits because it was time to swim. I packed my trunks in the anticipation of this offer. We were ushered to the pool and sauna both of which I thoroughly enjoyed.

After swimming we were told to shower and come downstairs for lunch. I had assumed that we had had lunch two hours earlier but as usual I never know quite what is going on here. An enormous meal had been prepared for the whole family. We ate a large cheesy soup followed by salad and fresh shrimp. Then we had the main course of spaghetti and French bread. Dessert was fresh fruit and whipped cream. It was all delicious and I was stuffed by the second course. I must admit that more than once I had to watch the family to decide what piece of the large array of silverware to use. This was a piece of knowledge that I did not think I would need to employ while in a developing country.

At the end of lunch we sat and chatted for about an hour. They, along with most Ecuadorians, love hearing about my family and where I am from. Both topics I am happy to talk about. I love the looks on their faces when I describe my city in Texas. They simply cannot believe people would live in a city that is flat, dry and dusty. When it was time to leave we let them know how grateful we were for having us there. They were pretty sad that we were not staying the night with them. They continually insisted that we could not leave. We promised we would return and stay the night at a later date. They turned this into a plan for us to stay a whole weekend and have the whole family together. They offered to drive us to the bus stop and we were happy to accept. Of course this meant we had to stop and get ice cream to delay our departure from the family. I offered to pay but they would have none of that. They then took us to the stop and we said goodbye and thanked them many many times.

I was amazed at the hospitality of this family. They had met me only a week before but I felt as if I was a member of the family. Despite the fact that this family was obviously very well off they still behaved like any other Ecuadorian family. They were very close to one another and were not arrogant or prideful. I am very proud to say that they are one of my new good friends. The grandmother kept hugging me and telling me how happy she was for us to be there. Ecuadorians walk arm in arm with people they are very close with. The grandmother walked with me in this fashion after only having known me for 3 hours. After she found out that my mom is coming to visit in October she insisted that we all stay with her. I thought she was just being nice but after the third time she mentioned it I knew she was serious. If her house is anything like her son’s I think my mom would rather enjoy that. She continually called me “my boy” when addressing me, in Spanish of course... This could also have been due to the fact that Todd is a ridiculously hard name to say in Spanish. I am hoping she just really liked me.

We got back very late in the evening but the bus trip was not very bad. My friend and I spent the ride chatting about how great and hospitable the family was. In the back of our mind I kept remembering that we had yet another very large day ahead of us.

On Sunday I woke up early without much rest and prepared a large strong cup of instant coffee. “Coffee, if it ain’t instant, it ain’t Ecuadorian”. Ecuador produces some of the best coffee beans in the world but for whatever reason, instant coffee is the craze. At my school the teachers use the drip coffee maker to make hot water to put into a cup and then add the granules of instant coffee. Appalling to all coffee drinkers, but it is what it is.

I headed to the central park of Latacunga at 7:30 in the morning. I walked around until I saw the man I was looking for. I recently met this guy and his wife at a literature night here in Latatcunga. While the poems and songs are in Spanish I can still appreciate the artistic prose. I told the guy that I wanted to climb a nearby mountain but didn’t have much information on it. In true Ecuadorian style he “Ok, let’s go this weekend.” So five days after having met this guy and his wife, I and another volunteer were about to be taken, by car, to the trailhead. The fact that we were taken by car was great. We assumed we would all take a bus but the guy told me that his father-in-law would be happy to take us. We all piled in to a very small car and headed off. We drove for about 20 minutes before arriving at a house on a hill. We all got out and were told to wait. Like always, I had no idea what was going on or about to happen. Then a large GMC 4x4 came rumbling up. We all piled in and headed off again. The man, my new friend, told me that the road is only passable by four wheel drive vehicles. I didn’t know it at the time, but we were going muddin’.

Cruising in the GMC. Can't beat 'Merican muscle.

The road got narrower and narrower. The rain didn’t help much either. We slowly crept up toward the mountain. The family kept calling the truck a “spider” because of the way it would lurch ahead with each touch of the gas. Other folks were making the same climb towards the mountain. Quickly we ran into a traffic jam. Trucks were stuck everywhere. It was very scary seeing the trucks slipping and sliding down the muddy road with large drops on one side. I was happy to get out of the truck and begin the hike.

We hiked for about 2 hours up the mountain, Putzalahua. I chatted with my new friend throughout the trip. He is somewhat of an intellect and enjoyed speaking and debating about socialism versus capitalism. He made some very valid points for his side and I feel that I did the same. It was refreshing to have an intellectual conversation in Spanish. The views along the hike were great. There were many indigenous people living high in the mountains and seeing them work in the fields and the housing always gives me a sense of humility. We made it to the top and soaked in the beautiful views. All around us the Andes rolled their hills out beneath us. I had yet another feeling awe when I thought of how lucky and blessed I am to live in such a beautiful place with such great people.

View from the top of Putzalahua

We had a picnic on the peak of sandwiches, chips and fruits. We took plenty of photos and then decided it was time to head down. When we got in the truck I realize just how exhausted I really was. I was struggling to keep my eyes open as my friend wanted to chat more. My weariness was a topic of conversation and great laughter in the truck as we drove back to Latacunga. We arrived back at his house and all piled out. I hugged each of them and thanked them profusely for taking us. I offered to help pay for gas but this family also would not have any of it. We are making plans to travel to another remote and beautiful spot 5 hours away next month.

Danilo and I

It is crazy to think that neither of these two families had not planned to host or hang out with two gringos this weekend but were more than happy to plan their weekend around us. The father-in-law most certainly could have spent his Sunday a better way than spending his time, money, and energy taking a friend of his son-in-law up a mountain but he was delighted to do it. The hospitality and genuine acceptance of new acquaintances here is incredible.

Couldn't resist taking a picture with this girl and her llama.

This is usually where I try to think of something witty or wise to say but honestly I am still too tired to think. So catch you on the flip side.